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SteveSux
01-05-2016, 08:44 PM
Rob,

What's with having to support the roof during replacement?

The process?

Boo
01-05-2016, 09:41 PM
I would think it's just wedging a short plank of wood from the center console fiberglass to the roof during removal and reinstall. I'd love to re-seal my windshield because it leaks rain from the sides, and that's what holding me up from finishing the car because I can't put the carpet in until it's rain proof so the interior is still yet to be installed.

Greasy DeLorean Mechanic
01-06-2016, 12:10 AM
Just close the doors while the adhesive dries -- they will provide all the support your roof needs. None other than Dave Swingle clued me in on that trick (it's in the old .com archives -- as soon as they are restored I'll post a link). He recommends lowering the toll booth windows before closing the doors so air pressure won't disturb the windshield. Safelite installed my windshield this way last thing on a Friday afternoon and let the car sit in their shop all weekend. When I picked it up Monday morning everything was fine and has been ever since. Doesn't leak a drop. Doors close perfectly.

Bill Robertson
#5939

P. J. Grady Inc.
01-06-2016, 05:26 PM
I agree with Dave and Bill on this. The only time I would attempt to raise the roof with the windshield out is if it is one of the few cars where the doors were settled too in front low out of the factory. I know one when I see it.
Rob

SteveSux
01-06-2016, 05:47 PM
I agree with Dave and Bill on this. The only time I would attempt to raise the roof with the windshield out is if it is one of the few cars where the doors were settled too in front low out of the factory. I know one when I see it.
RobSO, having to ship a D out of state where a "DMC dealer who has the tools etc to brace the roof...or you'll be sorry", is basically BS?

Greasy DeLorean Mechanic
01-06-2016, 05:50 PM
You can ship your car to Safelite in Fayetteville NC -- they definitely know how to do it (alternatively have your Safelite call Fayetteville and talk them through it).

Bill Robertson
#5939

Boo
01-06-2016, 05:50 PM
Just close the doors while the adhesive dries -- they will provide all the support your roof needs. None other than Dave Swingle clued me in on that trick (it's in the old .com archives -- as soon as they are restored I'll post a link). He recommends lowering the toll booth windows before closing the doors so air pressure won't disturb the windshield. Safelite installed my windshield this way last thing on a Friday afternoon and let the car sit in their shop all weekend. When I picked it up Monday morning everything was fine and has been ever since. Doesn't leak a drop. Doors close perfectly.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Bill, did you supply the windshield or did safelite supply it? Can you post prices if you don't mind? I just want to remove , reseal, and reinstall my windshield.

Rob, what price range would that be to remove, reseal and reinstall?

Greasy DeLorean Mechanic
01-06-2016, 06:01 PM
All windshields come from Houston or the franchises. I got the last Dunmurry windshield Houston had (Dave still had a couple at the time, but this was 5 or 6 years ago -- I suspect they're all Made in China now). Some delamination across the bottom but nothing I can't live with (about 1/8").

Insurance paid for mine.

Bill Robertson
#5939

P. J. Grady Inc.
01-06-2016, 06:02 PM
SO, having to ship a D out of state where a "DMC dealer who has the tools etc to brace the roof...or you'll be sorry", is basically BS?

Hmmmm...don't box me in! The other vendors are "my friends". "They love me I know they love me."
Rob

P. J. Grady Inc.
01-06-2016, 06:05 PM
Bill, did you supply the windshield or did safelite supply it? Can you post prices if you don't mind? I just want to remove , reseal, and reinstall my windshield.

Rob, what price range would that be to remove, reseal and reinstall?

It's extremely difficult to R&R a Delorean windshield without breaking it. I would only agree to reseal it on the car or be prepared to buy one.
Rob

Greasy DeLorean Mechanic
01-06-2016, 06:10 PM
It's extremely difficult to R&R a Delorean windshield without breaking it. I would only agree to reseal it on the car or be prepared to buy one.
Rob

If all you're looking to do is seal an existing windshield just gom the shit out of the underside of the metal surround pieces with silicone.

Helpful hint: for a perfect silicone line mask it off on both sides with blue mask (painter's tape). Works like a charm in bathrooms.

Bill Robertson
#5939

P. J. Grady Inc.
01-06-2016, 06:31 PM
If all you're looking to do is seal an existing windshield just gom the shit out of the underside of the metal surround pieces with silicone.

Helpful hint: for a perfect silicone line mask it off on both sides with blue mask (painter's tape). Works like a charm in bathrooms.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Our cars aren't bathrooms Bill and it's against Federal regulations IIRC to seal the windshield in any modern car with silicone. Why not just substitute the proper structurally sound urethane adhesive which is seven times stronger than silicone?
Yes it's messier and a few bucks more but it is the only one approved by the NHTSA.

Greasy DeLorean Mechanic
01-06-2016, 06:35 PM
If all you're trying to do is keep water out silicone will work just fine. What's the difference between trim pieces with nothing behind them and trim pieces with silicone behind them anyway? If anything silicone sealed trim pieces are *MINIMALLY* stronger than bare ones.

Gluing the surround trim with urethane would preclude removing them in the future for repainting etc.

Bill Robertson
#5939

P. J. Grady Inc.
01-06-2016, 06:51 PM
If all you're trying to do is keep water out silicone will work just fine. What's the difference between trim pieces with nothing behind them and trim pieces with silicone behind them anyway? If anything silicone sealed trim pieces are *MINIMALLY* stronger than bare ones.

Gluing the surround trim with urethane would preclude removing them in the future for repainting etc.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Why not just reseal the windshield edges with urethane and reinstalling the mouldings properly like we've been doing for 34 years? You would destroy the aluminum side filler panels if you ever had to remove them if set in with silicone. Why must you always reinvent the wheel? This is a time-suck! I'm leaving this to you and go get some dinner. Bye bye Billybob.
Rob

Greasy DeLorean Mechanic
01-06-2016, 07:12 PM
Slathering urethane on the edge of the glass provides no structural rigidity whatsoever. You need glue *BETWEEN* the glass and the body structure. Windshield has to come out to do that.

Barring a void in the urethane, I doubt many DeLoreans have water intrusion between the windshield and the body structure. It can happen on a metal bodied car as the body rusts, especially where the roof panel is welded to the body sides, but our upper bodies are cast in one solid piece. Chances are water intrusion attributed to the windshield is actually coming in elsewhere (my favorite is the choke point created by inner and outer weatherstripping on the A pillars -- almost no room for water to get through, so it backs up around the roof opening).

I suppose there could be casting voids in the upper body section.

In which case a bead of silicone would work just as well as a bead of urethane -- you're only talking about an air bubble during the body casting process.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Boo
01-06-2016, 09:17 PM
It's extremely difficult to R&R a Delorean windshield without breaking it. I would only agree to reseal it on the car or be prepared to buy one.
Rob

How can it be resealed on the car? How much would something like that cost? I just want it leak proof
Ooh sorry typed too soon and then read the above posts on this page. I used 3m window weld and tried to get it in the gap but it just didn't take and if I press down on the side of the windshield i cant see the gap move due to the window weld either not adhering to the glass or not being high enough to wall off the gap .

SteveSux
01-06-2016, 11:41 PM
Thing is the insurance co. set me up with Safelite, but they told me they don't do windshields on vehicles that old any more and gave me a phone number. This place told me they only had bronze w/o an antenna and gave me their installers number. He couldn't find one either. I told him I could get one with an antenna, but he will not guarantee glass he does not source. Nor will any of the other 10+ shops in my area I called. The insurance co. will transport it to the nearest dealer, but I don't need a two person, two car vacation in Florida or Illinois at the moment...
Time to turn up the heat I guess...

Greasy DeLorean Mechanic
01-07-2016, 01:18 AM
Tomorrow I will try to find the installation date of my windshield. With that your Safelite should be able to call my Safelite. Unless their installation policy has changed in the interim any Safelite should be able to do the job.

You may need to hold their hand and reassure them -- DeLoreans have a public reputation for being weird outer space cars.

Bill Robertson
#5939

SteveSux
01-07-2016, 08:54 AM
... Unless their installation policy has changed in the interim any Safelite should be able to do the job.That seems to be the case...

P. J. Grady Inc.
01-07-2016, 11:25 AM
Slathering urethane on the edge of the glass provides no structural rigidity whatsoever. You need glue *BETWEEN* the glass and the body structure. Windshield has to come out to do that.

Barring a void in the urethane, I doubt many DeLoreans have water intrusion between the windshield and the body structure. It can happen on a metal bodied car as the body rusts, especially where the roof panel is welded to the body sides, but our upper bodies are cast in one solid piece. Chances are water intrusion attributed to the windshield is actually coming in elsewhere (my favorite is the choke point created by inner and outer weatherstripping on the A pillars -- almost no room for water to get through, so it backs up around the roof opening).

I suppose there could be casting voids in the upper body section.

In which case a bead of silicone would work just as well as a bead of urethane -- you're only talking about an air bubble during the body casting process.

Bill Robertson
#5939

A windshield should be resealed if leaking with the same material it is installed with. They commonly separate and leak at the top edge and we typically clean the void where it separates and force fresh urethane into the void. That is why you must use urethane to reseal a leak.
Rob

P. J. Grady Inc.
01-07-2016, 11:35 AM
How can it be resealed on the car? How much would something like that cost? I just want it leak proof
Ooh sorry typed too soon and then read the above posts on this page. I used 3m window weld and tried to get it in the gap but it just didn't take and if I press down on the side of the windshield i cant see the gap move due to the window weld either not adhering to the glass or not being high enough to wall off the gap .

I can't say at this point as the window weld would have to be removed and urethane applied. That could be risky in itself. There is a chance of breaking the glass removing what you've put on there already but it must come off since it didn't work.
Rob

Boglin
01-07-2016, 11:37 AM
Rob, do you still remove windshields to install a-pillar trim, or do you do something special there? I have some fiberglass a-pillar trims still in the box from DMC CA.

NightFlyer
01-07-2016, 11:56 AM
All windshields come from Houston or the franchises. I got the last Dunmurry windshield Houston had (Dave still had a couple at the time, but this was 5 or 6 years ago -- I suspect they're all Made in China now). Some delamination across the bottom but nothing I can't live with (about 1/8").

Insurance paid for mine.

Bill Robertson
#5939

The DMCH repro windshields are sourced from a Turkish manufacturer.

Greasy DeLorean Mechanic
01-07-2016, 11:57 AM
That seems to be the case...

Just got off the phone with Safelite's national call center in Phoenix. According to their national computer system Safelite still does DeLorean windshields. Phoenix says to have your Safelite call the Safelite in Fayetteville NC direct and reference my work order: 01845-112545 March 22, 2011. Apparently Safelites can call each other directly (general public gets routed to Phoenix, even when calling the local number).

Bill Robertson
#5939

NightFlyer
01-07-2016, 12:06 PM
but he will not guarantee glass he does not source.

Why would this matter? You don't need/want him to guarantee the glass - only the job/labor that he provides, yes?

Manufacturer of the product typically provides the warranty/guarantee of the actual product - not the retailer/installer.

NightFlyer
01-07-2016, 12:14 PM
How can it be resealed on the car? How much would something like that cost? I just want it leak proof
Ooh sorry typed too soon and then read the above posts on this page. I used 3m window weld and tried to get it in the gap but it just didn't take and if I press down on the side of the windshield i cant see the gap move due to the window weld either not adhering to the glass or not being high enough to wall off the gap .

http://i5.walmartimages.com/dfw/dce07b8c-ad6e/k2-_112c0f11-5ffd-404b-91c0-4ba2d9f898df.v1.jpg

Greasy DeLorean Mechanic
01-07-2016, 12:40 PM
Is Louis' windshield coming loose from the car body, or does it just have a void in the seal? If the windshield is coming loose it needs to be replaced -- the windshield is a significant part of carbody integrity. If the windshield to body seal is intact but merely has a void, just like a metal bodied car with a rust hole, then silicone is a perfectly acceptable repair.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Duplicate Account
01-07-2016, 01:14 PM
...from a Turkish manufacturer.

Specifically, from Constantinople.

Duplicate Account
01-07-2016, 01:14 PM
Rob, do you still remove windshields to install a-pillar trim, or do you do something special there? I have some fiberglass a-pillar trims still in the box from DMC CA.


Am also interested in this.

Greasy DeLorean Mechanic
01-07-2016, 01:27 PM
Specifically, from Constantinople.

Ottomans fixed that for you.

Bill Robertson
#5939

NightFlyer
01-07-2016, 01:36 PM
Ottomans fixed that for you.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Maybe he doesn't recognize the re-naming, much in the way that a majority of the international community doesn't recognize the re-naming of Burma to Myanmar by the illegal military junta currently ruling the country.... :dunno:

Duplicate Account
01-07-2016, 01:44 PM
Maybe he doesn't recognize the re-naming, much in the way that a majority of the international community doesn't recognize the re-naming of Burma to Myanmar by the illegal military junta currently ruling the country.... :dunno:

It's nobody's business but the Turks. Alternate joke: courier who delivers the windshields can elect to get stabbed in the face for free!

P. J. Grady Inc.
01-07-2016, 01:50 PM
Am also interested in this.

The factory laid the windshield directly onto the A post material after the first few hundred cars to give the area a more finished appearance. It makes replacing the A posts problematical as a result. The correct method is to remove the windshield which typically means breaking it although I recall saving a couple over the years IIRC. The bottom portion is the hardest due to the limited access and the two metal locator/support clips for the glass. You cannot get a urethane cutter through them so you have to resort to the wire-cutter method there.

Another way is to cut the original A posts out without removing the glass which in itself is difficult and clumsy but in the end doable. You can then fold and glue the material on your new posts onto the backside and then urethane the back near the edge directly to the fiberglass A post area avoiding the windshield. The caveat here is that you're back at this point to the more unfinished early VIN look but at least you save the shield.

BTW Matt your F.G. A posts will not fit correctly at the bottom as the angle is wrong. If you want them to fit flush with the dash, and I know you do, you will have to cut and re-fiberglass the bottom edge to match the plane of the dash.
We have a very limited supply of corrected A posts that we cover with the original factory grey material that I managed to score off Ed Bernstein before he went fuzzy on an inventory deal.
Rob

Boo
01-07-2016, 03:36 PM
I can't say at this point as the window weld would have to be removed and urethane applied. That could be risky in itself. There is a chance of breaking the glass removing what you've put on there already but it must come off since it didn't work.
Rob
My windshield gap is at the bottom of the two sides. I thought windo-weld WAS urethane. I figured that's what you use.

Boo
01-07-2016, 03:37 PM
Specifically, from Constantinople.

I love the sound of that place!

P. J. Grady Inc.
01-07-2016, 03:43 PM
a
My windshield gap is at the bottom of the two sides. I thought Windo-Weld WAS urethane. I figured that's what you use.

Actually you are correct that is 3M's name for their urethane. It still needs to be cut back since it didn't take or there will be an excessive buildup which gets progressively harder to find the leak. Did you clean the area and remove any loose urethane before resealing? I don't know why it didn't work for you but it should be fixable without pulling the shield.
Rob

Boo
01-07-2016, 03:48 PM
Thanks Rob, I'll be at Tom's in Huntington Saturday morning and we are going to investigate the windshield. Maybe you could stop by...

Boglin
01-07-2016, 10:44 PM
BTW Matt your F.G. A posts will not fit correctly at the bottom as the angle is wrong. If you want them to fit flush with the dash, and I know you do, you will have to cut and re-fiberglass the bottom edge to match the plane of the dash.
Rob

http://www.mememaker.net/static/images/memes/3857563.jpg

Duplicate Account
01-07-2016, 10:51 PM
We talked about this though. You need a stainless insert with "DMC" on it. Bonus points if you put it on twice, with little DMCs inside each letter.

SteveSux
01-08-2016, 02:31 AM
Just got off the phone with Safelite's national call center in Phoenix. According to their national computer system Safelite still does DeLorean windshields. Phoenix says to have your Safelite call the Safelite in Fayetteville NC direct and reference my work order: 01845-112545 March 22, 2011. Apparently Safelites can call each other directly (general public gets routed to Phoenix, even when calling the local number).

Bill Robertson
#5939Thanks, Bill!

I'll call them in the AM...

SteveSux
01-08-2016, 02:58 AM
Why would this matter? You don't need/want him to guarantee the glass - only the job/labor that he provides, yes?
Manufacturer of the product typically provides the warranty/guarantee of the actual product - not the retailer/installer.No. Be it by me/Insurance, the installer is being paid for parts and labor. If it breaks, it is not going to be my problem. The SOP, as I understand it from several installers, is that if it breaks while being installed, his supplier will replace it.
After that, it's back on my insurance.


Update:
The adjuster says they will take care of it, else total it (yeah, like that would ever happen). But anyway, I found an installer with 37 years in auto glass (only). He's coming out Saturday (says he has done two before w/o problems fwiw). With all the BS going on I am going to shoot for the moon and see if the installer will insist on the new style glass (UV) instead of an aged, "partially de-laminated on the edge(s)" NOS glass, and, an antenna kit, installed. If they balk, I'll offer to install the antenna. I had a nice glass and antenna and that should be the case when the claim is closed. Else they can ship the SOB 905 mile$ and pray I can't find a flaw in the new one (or anything wrong that is not in high res pics).
I have to say they are 'being good' so far....

Greasy DeLorean Mechanic
01-08-2016, 09:38 AM
Houston doesn't have any more original windshields (at least when I bought mine 5 years ago Cameron told me that was the last "usable" one they had). If you buy from Houston you should be getting new production.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Andrew
01-08-2016, 12:15 PM
It is my understanding that Houston has new production windshields with an antenna.

Safelite installed the windshield that I ordered from PJ Grady for 4194 back in 2001 without any difficulty. To this day there are no leaks whatsoever. It's unfortunate that Safelite has since turned their backs on the classic car market.

By the way, check out Glass America. I just did an online quote for a Delorean windshield and was given an installed price of $199.22. http://www.glassusa.com/get-a-quote/

Greasy DeLorean Mechanic
01-08-2016, 01:06 PM
It's unfortunate that Safelite has since turned their backs on the classic car market.

The national call center rep I spoke to yesterday reported Safelite still does DeLoreans.

Did Ron talk to the national center or his local shop? It is entirely possible a local shop would shy away from committing to doing the job because DeLoreans are popularly perceived as weird/difficult cars. The fiberglass body structure might also scare them away.

I can't imagine Safelite writ large would turn their backs on classic Mustangs, F150's, etc.

In fact I know Safelite still did early 80's F150's last year because a friend of mine got the windshield replaced in his truck.

Bill Robertson
#5939

P. J. Grady Inc.
01-08-2016, 01:34 PM
http://www.mememaker.net/static/images/memes/3857563.jpg

Matt this is one of the funniest memes I've yet seen! Time for me to clam up no doubt! LOL.
Rob

Boo
01-08-2016, 03:01 PM
Wow 199 installed ?!? I'd pay for that out of pocket to get these leaks fixed.

P. J. Grady Inc.
01-08-2016, 03:22 PM
Wow 199 installed ?!? I'd pay for that out of pocket to get these leaks fixed.

If it sounds too good to be true.....!
Rob

Boo
01-08-2016, 04:55 PM
If it sounds too good to be true.....!
Rob
I agree completely. How much would a new windshield installed be Rob?

Boo
01-08-2016, 04:59 PM
I just did the online quote for the glass USA and it as $208 in port Charlotte Florida 33952. They don't have locations near my zip code 11510. Still sounds too good to be true.

Greasy DeLorean Mechanic
01-08-2016, 05:02 PM
By the way, check out Glass America. I just did an online quote for a Delorean windshield and was given an installed price of $199.22. http://www.glassusa.com/get-a-quote/

Windshield itself is $450 plus shipping -- don't believe that online calculator (it likely is assuming $100 for the windshield, which is the going rate for a normal vehicle like an F150: http://www.lmctruck.com/features/fd/FD9W2.htm).

Bill Robertson
#5939

Boo
01-08-2016, 05:18 PM
And for install?

P. J. Grady Inc.
01-08-2016, 05:21 PM
I agree completely. How much would a new windshield installed be Rob?

You shouldn't need a windshield. I'm working TM but will try and stop by Tom's and have a look/see around noon.
Rob

Boo
01-08-2016, 05:26 PM
Thanks Rob! That's absolutely AWESOME of you.

SteveSux
01-09-2016, 11:51 AM
The national call center rep I spoke to yesterday reported Safelite still does DeLoreans.

Did Ron talk to the national center or his local shop? It is entirely possible a local shop would shy away from committing to doing the job because DeLoreans are popularly perceived as weird/difficult cars. The fiberglass body structure might also scare them away.

I can't imagine Safelite writ large would turn their backs on classic Mustangs, F150's, etc.

In fact I know Safelite still did early 80's F150's last year because a friend of mine got the windshield replaced in his truck.

Bill Robertson
#5939I called Fayetville 877 609-6714. They said my local could not locate a glass and refused to install glass from an alternate source they had, and, that they should not have referred me to another company. Their national call center (Ohio) said next nearest shop was in Dalton, GA and I would have to get it there, IF they could get a glass?? Screw em.
...Waiting on previously mention guy to call me today.....

Greasy DeLorean Mechanic
01-09-2016, 12:04 PM
When I got mine replaced I prearranged everything with Houston myself so all Safelite had to do was call Houston to complete the order I already had waiting. Windshield was shipped directly to their shop. Safelite also paid Houston -- I just set up the order for them to complete.

Actually there were quite a few phone calls on my end. I not only lined up the windshield but also was the middle man between my insurance company and Safelite, via my local insurance rep (I paid her visits in person, then called Houston and Safelite on her behalf). I also visited Safelite in person. It certainly wasn't a single phone call transaction.

My Safelite was great to work with. I drove the car up there on a Friday morning, then hitched a ride back to Laurinburg with one of their mobile installers. Monday morning I rented a tow dolly and drove up there to retrieve the car after letting it sit in their shop all weekend while the adhesive dried.

Bill Robertson
#5939

P. J. Grady Inc.
01-09-2016, 03:42 PM
I just got back from Tom Niland's house and think we have Lou's leaks licked! He hogged all of the sealant out of the driver side and a four inch chunk along the bottom passenger side. I cleaned and primed the glass and fiberglass and injected urethane to fill the gaps. The warmer weather we have this weekend should cure the adhesive in time for a heavy rain fall TM which will let him know if there are any other leaks. We air checked the shield with compressed air and found no other leaks apparent so he should be good to go. As for the rest of the car I have no idea as we concentrated on the shield for today's project.
BTW Bill the driver side had no sealant left with an 1/8" air gap so the urethane was absolutely necessary for a proper structural repair as I suspected. I'm just sayin'...no need for rebuttal.
Rob

NightFlyer
01-09-2016, 04:15 PM
That was very AWESOME of you Rob - I'm sure Lou appreciates it :thumbup:

Rich_NYS
01-09-2016, 04:18 PM
That was very AWESOME of you Rob - I'm sure Lou appreciates it :thumbup:

+1

Shep
01-09-2016, 04:20 PM
The factory laid the windshield directly onto the A post material after the first few hundred cars to give the area a more finished appearance. It makes replacing the A posts problematical as a result.How easy is it to tell between the two methods? My passenger A-pillar is the most hideous thing on my car. Maybe this is why DPI Josh is taking so long to get around to it...

Greasy DeLorean Mechanic
01-09-2016, 04:27 PM
no need for rebuttal

Take a chill pill Rob. Louis didn't mention until Post #16 that his windshield was actually separated from the carbody and moving in & out (to which I replied in Post #27 that if the windshield is loose it needs to be reglued, thank you very much).

Coming from road salt territory surely you know how many cars are driving around with minor leaks sealed with silicone. I bet half the cars in New York have rust holes sealed that way. The pickup truck I bought from New Jersey is (triple whammy: cab roof, side, and rain gutter come together in one seam).

Bill Robertson
#5939

P. J. Grady Inc.
01-09-2016, 04:37 PM
How easy is it to tell between the two methods? My passenger A-pillar is the most hideous thing on my car. Maybe this is why DPI Josh is taking so long to get around to it...
Very. The very earliest cars used a thicker molded base pad with the material wrapped around the backside leaving roughly 1/4'' of unfinished fiberglass exposed. If you wrap the material around the back on the later thin pad and then bond it to the pillar it looks similar but actually better than the early setup. It's a fair price to pay for not braking a perfectly good windshield IMHO. Maybe I'll post an early car pic later if I have time.
Rob

P. J. Grady Inc.
01-09-2016, 04:39 PM
Take a chill pill Rob. Louis didn't mention until Post #16 that his windshield was actually separated from the carbody and moving in & out (to which I replied in Post #27 that if the windshield is loose it needs to be reglued, thank you very much).

Coming from road salt territory surely you know how many cars are driving around with minor leaks sealed with silicone. I bet half the cars in New York have rust holes sealed that way. The pickup truck I bought from New Jersey is (triple whammy: cab roof, side, and rain gutter come together in one seam).

Bill Robertson
#5939

Ouch...I hit a nerve!

Boo
01-09-2016, 04:56 PM
Shout out to Rob Grady. Thank you so much for coming by Tom's today and helping me re-seal the windshield!

You absolutely rock man.

NightFlyer
01-09-2016, 05:13 PM
Shout out to Rob Grady. Thank you so much for coming by Tom's today and helping me re-seal the windshield!

You absolutely rock man.

So does this mean that you can start putting the interior back in?

Boo
01-09-2016, 05:58 PM
I am going to redo the door seals and make sure it's water proof before I take that step.

Boo
01-10-2016, 10:22 AM
Well after last nights downpour, I Went out this morning to check if there was water in the car and oh boy!
I'm sure the windshield isn't the only culprit here.
7018
7019
7020
7021
7022

Time to sit in the car while someone showers it to see EXACTLY where the water is coming in. And time for new door seals from Rob! Rob, please check your PM.

P. J. Grady Inc.
01-10-2016, 11:36 AM
Got it Lou and thank you. It would appear the remaining leaks are from the door B post areas or where the armrest extension panels normally sit. That is a common area for leaks on some cars. At least it's apparently dry in the windshield area so you can concentrate on finding the remaining leaks with the interior out. Get a spotter (or a "hoser" for that matter!) to assist you with leak checking and you should see them easily.
Rob

Boo
01-10-2016, 11:59 AM
Thanks again Rob!
I may reseal that pass side windshield head. I just don't like how little the factory urethane actually contacts the glass. Since i can pull out that side bead all in one piece, it should be a quick job to clean, prime and reseal it with a nice thick full bead of urethane.
Can you PM with the info on where to get those squeeze packets of primer for the glass?

Boo
01-10-2016, 12:08 PM
The drivers side still has water on the sill all the way up front right under the bonnet latch handle. The pass side leak at the seat belt reel is a strange mystery too. Time to have a hoser and a spotter is right! We should have done that yesterday. Just like I feel I should have completely removed the entire factory urethane and resealed the entire pass side of the windshield. Now with your expert training, and a can of primer, I can fully reseal the pass side of the windshield. I know you put a skin of new urethane over it but it's eating away at me that I left that old urethane in the upper 3/4 of the pass side of the windshield.

Boo
01-10-2016, 12:33 PM
I think the pass side has water coming in from the lower front of the door seal here
7023
And the rear pass side has water coming in just below the seat belt reel here
7024
And the drivers side has water coming in on the sill by the bonnet latch here
7025
And by the bottom rear part of the door seal also.
Hopefully soon I can seal everything and with Robs new door seals, and sealing the weatherstripping on the bottom of the door Windows, the leaks will end .

P. J. Grady Inc.
01-10-2016, 02:42 PM
Thanks again Rob!
I may reseal that pass side windshield head. I just don't like how little the factory urethane actually contacts the glass. Since i can pull out that side bead all in one piece, it should be a quick job to clean, prime and reseal it with a nice thick full bead of urethane.
Can you PM with the info on where to get those squeeze packets of primer for the glass?

I think you're safer leaving it be as is because the adhesion and support is better than on the L/H side and you may break the shield trying to scrape it out. If it's not leaking I recommend leaving it alone. Some auto body supply shops carry the single use packets if you insist on more shield work but I couldn't advise which one near you might have it.
The forward leak is often coming through at the three 13 mm bolt heads that mount the door striker box from the inside. The heads are usually seals with silicone but often poorly so check there whith a flashlight when water testing. You do't need to primer that area. Most other non glass related leaks can be sealed with regular black silicone and no primer.
Rob

Boo
01-10-2016, 02:46 PM
Actually the driver side is adhered nicely now and the factory pass side that's still in there has a lot of air gap and only that thin line that's adhered. Ill try to post pics when I get home. I'm going to see Star Wars right now . Also I can just pull it out , no scraping needed. It was pulling right out from bottom to top but I stopped and cut it. In hindsight I should have just pulled it out completely and re done the whole side like the driver side. Let me know about those seals

Greasy DeLorean Mechanic
01-11-2016, 08:52 PM
Went to Fayetteville tonight to see a movie. While I was up there I stopped by my Safelite:

They remember vividly doing my windshield. They confirmed that Safelite does indeed do DeLorean windshields (the shops are company owned, not franchises -- any Safelite should do a DeLorean). If Ron's Safelite needs an experienced shop to hold its hand, call Renee Gonia at (910) 868-1214 (direct shop number -- won't go to either of the national call centers).

Bill Robertson
#5939